"It took many years of experimenting and finding out direction of the hair grain on my face." That's how one man described getting his shave right. Years. You shouldn't need years. Here are the straight answers we give in the barbershop, in the order you need them.
How do you stop razor bumps on coily hair?
Soften the hair, see the hair, and shave it the way it grows. Coily beard hair grows in a tight curl, so a close cut can curl back into the skin. Warm water first, a clear gel so you can see the grain, a sharp blade, one pass with the grain, then a cool rinse. If bumps keep coming back, see a dermatologist.
Why do men with coily hair get razor bumps?
Because the hair curls. When coily hair is cut sharp and close to the skin, the end can curl back and grow into the skin instead of out of it. That's the bump. It's common for men with curly, coarse beard hair, and it's why technique matters more for us than for men with straight hair.
How do I find the direction my beard grows?
Use the palm test. Run your palm over each zone, cheek, jaw and neck, one way and then the other. The way that feels smooth is the way the hair grows. On a lot of men the neck grows sideways or in a swirl, not straight down. Check each zone before every shave until you know your map.
Should I shave with or against the grain?
With the grain. Going against it cuts the hair closer and sharper, which gives the curl more chance to grow back in. Shave each zone in the direction it grows, one pass, light pressure. If you want it closer, re-lather and do a second pass with the grain, not against it.
Is gel better than foam if I get bumps?
A clear gel lets you see what you're shaving. Foam covers the hair, so you can't see the grain or the bumps you already have, and you end up shaving over them. That's why we make Hydro-Glaze as a clear, low-foam gel, with aloe and witch hazel to cool skin after the shave.
Does a trimmer or electric shaver help?
For a lot of men, yes. Many guys with coily hair switch to clippers or a trimmer and leave a little length, so the hair isn't cut below the skin line. The grain still matters with electric: move with the direction of growth, don't press hard, and give skin the same aftercare you'd give a razor shave.
What should I do right after I shave?
Rinse with cool water, pat dry, don't rub, and use a post-shave step. Ours is Bump Clear: one step in a routine for men who get razor bumps. Results vary. Leave the area alone after. Picking at bumps or tweezing the hair out can irritate the skin more.
When should I see a dermatologist?
If bumps stick around between shaves, get painful, fill with pus, or leave dark marks, see a dermatologist. A routine helps with the everyday shave. It isn't a substitute for a doctor when your skin is telling you something's wrong.
The routine that runs it
- Warm: warm water or a warm washcloth for about a minute.
- See it: a thin layer of Hydro-Glaze Cooling Aloe Shave Gel.
- Shave: sharp blade, with the grain, one pass, zone by zone.
- Cool: cool rinse, pat dry.
- Finish: Bump Clear. One step in a routine for men who get razor bumps. Results vary.
Want it all in one box? The Shaving Regimen. Want the long version, wet or dry? Read Two ways to shave textured hair. More prep: 6 Tips for Shaving Curly Coarse Hair.
